Aroid-Ready Potting Mixes: Simple Recipes for Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium & Hoya

Aroid-Ready Potting Mixes: Simple Recipes for Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium & Hoya

Aroid soil mix matters more than almost any other choice you make for Monstera, Philodendron, Anthurium, and Hoya. The best soil for Monstera and other aroids is chunky, airy, and fast draining so roots stay oxygenated while holding just enough moisture to fuel steady growth. Below you’ll find the exact base components to keep on hand, four simple aroid potting mix recipes by genus, easy seasonal tweaks, and clear notes for plants that have just arrived from shipping.

TL;DR

Best soil for Monstera and other aroids is chunky, airy, and fast draining, not straight potting soil. Build mixes by parts, not by fixed volume. Start with bark and pumice for structure, add a small amount of fine material for water hold, then tune for your pot type and season. If you want to predict dry-down times, read the Watering Decoder. If your plant just shipped, avoid repotting during week 1 unless there is a true emergency.

Helpful related reading

• Dial in watering timing and dry-down speed with our Watering Decoder.

• New arrival or stressed roots? Follow our step-by-step Plant Rehab Guide before repotting.

Base aroid mix components explained

Use clean, pest-free ingredients. Rinse dusty media and pre-wet before blending.

Orchid bark, medium grade

Structure and long-term airflow. Aim for 6-12 mm pieces.

Pumice

Durable aeration that will not float. Great for long intervals between repots.

Perlite

Light aeration that speeds dry-down. Can float, so mix well.

Coco chips

Chunky water holder that still breathes. Good peat-free backbone.

Coco coir or a fine peat-free base

Fine fraction that lifts water retention so roots do not flash-dry. Use lightly.

Long-fiber sphagnum, chopped

Targeted moisture near roots. Use as a small percentage or as a top stitch around new roots.

Horticultural charcoal

Trace adsorption and extra pore space. Optional, small amount only.

Worm castings

Gentle nutrition and microbe kickstart. Use a light hand in indoor setups.

Sizing and pots

Smaller pots dry faster. Terracotta speeds evaporation. Plastic and cachepots hold longer. Slotted nursery pots increase side airflow.

4 quick recipes by genus

Parts are by volume. One scoop can be a cup or a handful.

Monstera, general house strains

Goal: fast oxygen with a modest water buffer.

4 parts medium orchid bark
2 parts pumice
1 part perlite
1 part coco chips or coir
0.5 part horticultural charcoal
Optional: 0.5 part worm castings

Tweak it

Very dry home or strong light: add 0.5 part chopped sphagnum.
Cool room or low light: remove the perlite and add 1 extra part pumice.

Philodendron, climbers and many velvet types

Goal: airy but slightly more even moisture than Monstera.

3 parts orchid bark
2 parts pumice
1 part perlite
1 part coco coir
0.5 part chopped sphagnum
0.25 part charcoal

Tweak it

If leaves feel thin or curl between drinks, raise sphagnum to 0.75 part.
If petioles stay soft or mix lingers wet, swap the perlite for 1 extra part pumice.

Anthurium, epiphyte and velvet forms

Goal: very high air with targeted moisture around active roots.

4 parts orchid bark
3 parts pumice
1 part coco chips
1 part chopped sphagnum
0.25 part charcoal

Tweak it

Seedlings or freshly rooted divisions: top-stitch a thin ring of sphagnum to reduce edge dry-out.

Mature plants in cool seasons: reduce sphagnum to 0.5 part.

Hoya, thick-leaved trailers and climbers

Goal: fast-drying, very airy mix with light nutrition.

5 parts orchid bark
3 parts pumice
1 part perlite
0.5 part coco chips
Pinch of worm castings

Tweak it

If your space is very dry, swap the perlite for 0.5 part coir.
If you tend to water often, drop the coir and add 1 extra part pumice.

Aroid pot type tweaks

Terracotta: add 0.5 part coir or 0.25 part sphagnum to any recipe.
Plastic or cachepot: add 1 extra part pumice, remove 0.5 part fine material.
Slotted nursery pot: recipes above are ready as written.

Winter vs summer tweaks

Plants drink with light, temperature, and airflow.

Summer or high light

Keep airflow high. Expect faster dry-down. Use more bark and pumice, and keep fine material light.

Winter or low light

Light and warmth drop, so water use slows. Reduce perlite, add a small bump of coir or a thin sphagnum stitch, and move to plastic if terracotta feels too rapid.

Travel or irregular care

Increase coco chips by 0.5 part for a steadier buffer, then confirm timing with the Watering Decoder.

Shipping-recovery mix notes

First week after arrival: do not repot unless you see active rot or a collapsed medium. Use bright room light and follow the week-1 moist-then-dry-down pattern from Rehab.

If you must intervene for rot: shift to a high-oxygen rehab blend and go light on fines. Good triage blend:

5 parts bark, 3 parts pumice, 1 part perlite, 0.5 part sphagnum as a loose layer near the crown.

Resume your target recipe once you see new roots or a clean push of growth.

A quick note from us

Have a plant, pot size, or room setup you want tuned? Drop your species, pot type, and humidity in the comments. We will help you pick a recipe and adjust it for your space.

Aroid Potting Mix FAQ

What is the best soil for Monstera indoors
A chunky, fast-draining aroid mix built around orchid bark and pumice with a small amount of fine material for water hold. Start with the Monstera recipe above, then adjust for your pot and season.

Can I use straight potting soil for aroids
Not ideal. Most bagged soil compacts and stays wet in the core. Blend in bark and pumice, or build one of the recipes from scratch.

Perlite or pumice, which is better
Both add air. Perlite is light and speeds dry-down. Pumice is heavier, stays put, and supports a longer repot cycle. Use a mix of both if you want the benefits of each.

Do I need sphagnum in every blend
No. It is a tool. Use a small amount for seedlings, thin-leaved Philodendron, and cool dry rooms. Reduce or skip in warm bright rooms or if you tend to water often.

When is it safe to repot after shipping
Usually after the plant settles and you see new growth, often 10-21 days. During week 1, only repot for an emergency.